The seven different types of loafers include the penny loafer, tassel loafer, kiltie loafer, horsebit loafer, and slipper, all of which range from casual to semi-formal, the strictly-casual driver loafer, and the always-formal opera pump.
Curious about what loafers are exactly? Why wouldn’t you be? They never go out of style.
They’re like the people pleasers of the shoe world.
Most loafers make style-conscious guys as happy and as comfortable as casual gents.
Still, even within the loafer category, there are several subcategories, each type fulfilling nuanced needs of different dress codes and personal styles.
We’re going into granular detail, leather pun fully intended, regarding every single type of loafer. By the end, you’ll know which styles are, and perhaps more importantly aren’t, for you.
Table of Contents
7 Types of Men’s Loafers
1. Penny Loafer
If you appreciate traditional style in your Penny loafers, these may just be your new grail. Handcrafted in Wisconsin, the single layer soles give them a sleek profile and the leather lined interior makes for comfortable wearing. Yeah, they're really classy.
The penny loafer’s identifying feature is the strap that goes across its upper, right below the lip. This horizontal saddle is built with a cut-out insert in the middle that people once used to store a single penny in (hence, the name).
First seen in Norway in the ‘30s, the shoe gained popularity among the Ivy set in the ‘50s and ‘60s. In the post-war era, you’d see penny loafers paired with khakis at a country club, a cable-knit vest on university campuses in the northeast, and with black socks and suits in Manhattan.
Are Penny Loafers More Casual or Formal?
Penny loafers can be worn both casually and professionally, making them effective everyday shoes.
Naturally, they don’t go with any athletic wear, and the only penny loafers I’d pair with a tuxedo are black leathers, with around one-inch heels, and small or nonexistent beefrolls.
Beefrolls, by the way, are the inedible edges of a shoe saddle, rolled up and stitched the same way butchers tie up a roast. The bigger the beefrolls are on loafers, the more casual the shoes look.
Wearing penny loafers without socks is likewise more casual than wearing them with socks. It also gives them a summery vibe.
Are Penny Loafers For You?
Penny loafers are, as much as a piece of clothing can be, for everyone.
Unless you only ever wear basketball shorts, they’re easily incorporated into any wardrobe thanks to their versatility.
What drew them to the preppy set was their unflashy elegance, a quality seen in the Allen Edmonds Randolph. The saddle goes all the way around, sans beefroll, providing a smooth silhouette that can be worn with jeans and a t-shirt, or a suit.
2. Tassel Loafer
Made to order. Italian full-grain leather. Blake stitch construction. I appreciate all of these things in a loafer, and this one from Shoebly favorites Beckett Simonon brings them all plus more in a very stylish tassel package.
As their name indicates, tassel loafers have two hanging tassels beneath the lip, right where you’d tie up the laces on traditional dress shoes.
The Alden Shoe Company developed the first tassel loafers in the ‘50s, supposedly inspired by Hungarian actor, Paul Lukas, who wanted a slip-on version of his tasseled Oxfords.
Are Tassel Loafers More Casual or Formal?
Tassel loafers are still dressy, but definitely lean more into the casual side compared to penny loafers. Keep in mind that the more details there are on a piece of clothing, the less formal they are (think a collared shirt with a clean front versus one with utility pockets).
As always though, it’s a balancing act. If you’re looking at black leather loafers with zero details aside from the tassels, you can pull them off with a black suit and tie easily.
Meanwhile, brown suedes with thick saddles and a lot of visible stitching aren’t the best choice for a semi-formal, but can still be worn with a suit in smart casual situations.
Are Tassel Loafers For You?
The cool thing about this style is that the fringed tassels are an easy way to incorporate some whimsy into your outfit without going full dandy. You can have fun while maintaining a classic look.
The Beckett Simonon Bernard Loafers are a great example of well-balanced tassel shoes. The saddleless upper and slightly pointed toe are chicly minimalistic, ensuring the tassels aren’t too much. It’s a striking, but not loud, combination.
3. Kiltie Loafer
A modernized version of the classic kiltie loafer style the Gucci Aldo has a slim and sleek overall shape, while maintaining a large fringe and traditional square toe. Uniquely, this upscale rendition would pair as naturally with formal outfits as it would with business casual ones.
Originating in Scotland, kiltie loafers are also known as fringe loafers because of their characteristic decorative fringes. They sit beneath the lip or hang down from the tongue, the ends resting on the vamp.
While this tasseled lower saddle was used by Scottish landowners to protect their shoes from debris, today it’s purely ornamental, for you folks who like more decorative loafers.
Are Kiltie Loafers More Casual or Formal?
Kiltie loafers fall in the same category as penny and tassel loafers, ranging from casual to semi-formal depending on how slick the shape and how detailed the upper. In general though, they’re slightly more casual than tassel loafers.
While you can definitely wear kilties with khakis on the weekend or with socks and trousers at work, they’re most conducive to smart casual combinations. Wearing a polo shirt and jeans? Perhaps a suit and collarless shirt? Kiltie loafers would be well-suited for either.
Are Kiltie Loafers For You?
Kiltie loafers are perfect for you if you like bolder styles, though I recommend balancing them out with simpler outfits. I wouldn’t wear them with a patterned suit, for example.
Regardless of whether you’re going for a grandpa throwback look and wearing kilties with a cardigan, or a fashion-forward approach, I think these shoes require a level of confidence to pull off.
The Gucci Aldo Kiltie is a modernized version, with a slim and sleek overall shape, while maintaining its large fringe and traditional square toe. Uniquely, this upscale rendition would pair as naturally with formal outfits as it would with business casual ones.
4. Horsebit Loafer
Made with full-grain leather, Beckett Simonon’s Beaumonts lean a touch casual thanks to the rounded moccasin-like toes and beefrolls. They offer the sophistication you want in horsebit loafers, but aren’t as intimidating for horsebit newbies as Guccis would be.
When Gucci added the metal detail resembling a horse snaffle onto leather loafers in 1953, the look immediately took off among the jetset. This resulting horsebit loafer is still popular today and gives off a traditionally aspirational vibe, the same way a nice tan or a Rolex GMT-Master II does.
Are Horsebit Loafers More Casual or Formal?
Like the other dressier loafers, horsebits are versatile and can be worn with denim or with dress pants.
The difference here is that horsebit loafers, because of their association with Gucci, will always have a fancy air about them. Even if you pair them with a t-shirt and relaxed fit jeans, the vibe will be somewhere along the lines of an off-duty yacht owner.
Are Horsebit Loafers For You?
If you aren’t afraid of a style flex, you can pull off horsebit loafers. They also have a retro quality about them, but in the same way a woman’s Chanel suit does. The look hasn’t changed since it came out decades ago, but remains sartorially relevant.
Made with full-grain leather, Beckett Simonon’s Beaumonts lean a touch casual thanks to the rounded moccasin-like toes and beefrolls. They offer the sophistication you want in horsebit loafers, but aren’t as intimidating for horsebit newbies as Guccis would be.
5. Slipper
The JL Smoking Slipper is uncommon for a slipper loafer, straddling relaxed and dressy aesthetics. The suede construction and rubber outsole are tempered by leather accents, heel stacking, and a long silhouette. They're pricey, but they sure are lookers.
Slipper shoes are loafers with minimal to zero detailing on them. The lack of saddles mean the lips uninterruptedly transition into the top vamps, and sometimes even the sides.
Are Slippers More Casual or Formal?
Slipper-style loafers tend to fall either on one end of the casual-formal spectrum or the other, depending mostly on what the materials are made of. This makes them effectively the opposite of penny or tassel shoes.
If they’re made of super napped suede with rubber outsoles, then they’re essentially just simpler driving shoes, making them casual. If they’re constructed from shiny patent leather with a stacked leather outsole, then they’re essentially opera shoes without the bow, and hence more formal.
And as always, darker leathers are dressier than lighter suedes, as are more tapered toe boxes.
Are Slippers For You?
Since they’re so undetailed, slipper loafers can fit into a wide range of personal styles, most notably, that of the minimalist’s.
John Lobb’s Suede Smoking Slipper is uncommon for a slipper loafer, straddling relaxed and dressy aesthetics. The suede construction and rubber outsole are tempered by leather accents, heel stacking, and a long silhouette.
6. Driving Shoe
The OC Driver makes the trip to the post office just that little bit more enjoyable. With a 3oz suede leather upper from Marche, Italy, and hand stitched and lasted in Portugal, this ticks all the Euro-luxe boxes you want in a quality driving shoe.
Driving shoes are any kind of loafers that have rubber, pebbled outsoles instead of traditional leather, heeled ones.
They were invented in Italy in the ‘60s, the soles made to comfortably grip car pedals.
Are Driving Shoes More Casual or Formal?
Driving shoes are definitely casual. They’re so casual, you can even wear them with shorts.
I’m not saying you can’t pair them with a suit, but it’s a tough balancing act no different than if you wore low-profile white sneakers with a suit. So if you want to take that risk, opt for a nice t-shirt underneath your jacket, instead of a shirt and tie.
Are Driving Shoes For You?
Anyone can wear driving shoes casually. They have that cosmopolitan resort-ready kind of aesthetic.
So if you want casual footwear with a more old-fashioned luxurious feel than sneakers can provide, go for driving shoes.
Oliver Cabell’s Drivers are basically suede penny loafers with rubber outsoles. I love them because they’re perfect for leaving by the door so you can quickly slip into them when you’re running out to do last-minute errands or check your mail.
Since they look like penny loafers, they’re even good at-your-desk office shoes.
7. Opera Pump
I like these because they’re as lavish as classic opera pumps, but the grosgrain keepers make them more modern and less peacockish compared to traditional silk bows.
Also known as court shoes, opera pumps are simple, slipper-like loafers, often made with patent leather but sometimes with suede. Traditionally, they’re adorned with silk bows across the vamps.
Are Opera Pumps More Casual or Formal?
Opera Pumps are strictly formal. Period. Keep them far, far away from your jeans and chinos.
Are Opera Pumps For You?
Do you regularly attend black-tie balls or have box seat season tickets to the actual opera? Then sure, you might want a pair.
Some nice black Oxfords would be more versatile, but opera pumps are for you if you really like to do it up during dressier occasions.
I like the Allen Edmonds James Dress Loafers because they’re as lavish as classic opera pumps, but the grosgrain keepers make them more modern and less peacockish compared to traditional silk bows.
What Are Loafers?
Loafers are shoes that can be slipped on and off without lacing. They’re low-cut, almost exclusively made out of leather or suede, and have a smart casual quality about them.
Some would consider boat shoes a type of loafer since you don’t really have to tie and untie them to get them on and off, however the lacing technically keeps them out of the category. Besides, anyone whose worn boat shoes knows how much the laces like to undo themselves while you’re walking unless you get them tied just right.
Espadrilles are sometimes categorized as loafers because of their slip-on capabilities. With their rope soles and often canvas uppers though, the only thing espadrilles have in common with loafers is that they’re both likely descended from moccasins.
Another thing to keep in mind is that there are also combination loafers and subcategories within subcategories. For example, kiltie loafers can also have tassels on them, while the Venetian is a type of leather slipper loafer that’s strictly formal. We give the Venetian its own spotlight in our article on the different types of dress shoes.
Which Loafers Should You Get?
It’s all about your personal style—what you feel most like yourself in.
I truly believe that anyone can wear penny loafers. They’re definitely the most versatile, which is why they’re such a closet staple. If even penny loafers aren’t simple enough for you, go for slipper loafers.
Want something more ornate? Try tassel loafers or kilties. For me, they start to enter splashy territory, but again, it depends on the overall design.
I personally prefer the elegant hardware on a horsebit over tassels, but I understand that it might be a bit of a flex for some personal styles.
The least common loafers, opera pumps, are also the easiest to categorize and recommend. They’re rigidly black-tie specific, perfect for you if you love to dress to the nines.
FAQs
What makes a shoe a loafer?
Loafers are laceless slip-ons, usually made with leather or suede.
Are loafers formal?
Most loafers are smart casual to semi-formal. However, you can wear black leather loafers formally. The simpler the design, the dressier it is. Opera pumps are a type of formal loafers.
Do you wear socks with loafers?
You can wear loafers with or without socks. If you’re wearing them in a professional, non-casual-Friday setting, or a more formal setting, you should always wear them with socks.
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